Manali & the snow mountains

After beautiful beaches, dry deserts, high hills, plain plains, highways and even expressways (thanks to office, it’s a part of my life now), there was something missing on the list…SNOW. And where do we get this? Apart from freezer, we get this chemical substance in its natural form on mountain peaks above those high hillstations.

Manali is one of the busiest hillstations in North India (Himachal Pradesh). Its distance from New Delhi is 532 km. How to reach Manali?

1) Catch an airline to nearest airport (Bhuntoor), 2 hrs from Manali (NOT ADVICABLE, it cuts your scenic beauty adventure)
2) Buses from Delhi (ISBT) and Chandigarh (for gutsy persons only)
3) Hi-tech AC ‘suppose-to-be-comfortable’ Volvo Buses, runs from CP, Delhi (Advisable, rest depends on luck)
4) Self-DRIVED Bikes and Cars (strictly for guys seeking adventure)

(I went by option no. 3, though I regret for that)

Ideally the journey to Manali from Delhi takes max 14 hours, but the best part when you travel in INDIA, by INDIAN vehicles, driven by INDIAN drivers is that the whole traveling experience results in something unique…hence making it to unique adventures series very easily.

We started on a Thursday (Oct'08) at 7:00 PM from CP (Delhi) in a HP Tourism owned VOLVO. En route the passengers were tortured by showing a big bollywood flop ‘ONE TWO THREE’ (God bless them) starring Paresh Rawal, Sunil Shetty and Tushar Kapor (He is already blessed from God). Though must compliment, the consequence was positive; passengers complained more of headache syndrome rather than normal-vomit one (Thanks God). Early Morning, all woke up to see that the Volvo was halted (flat tyre). It took 1 hr to change it (so many nuts and nuts were there in it, God bless its designer). We finally landed there next day at 11:15 AM. The only positive thing in the journey was the scenic beauty – NH-21 highway alongside Beas river and the Himalayas…pleasure to eyes.


DAY ONE

Friday was dedicated to local site-seeing. The only ‘recommendable’ places to visit – Hidamba Temple (located amidst very very tall trees; seems situated in dense rain forests, also has a charming architecture).
Another place to visit can be Vaishist Kund (hot water pipes from ground). Rest all places are just meant for filling the pamphlet. Fare: Taxi (Alto/Indica) - Rs. 350-500 for local site-seeing (negotiable).
Friday evening can be reserved for roaming at THE MALL (a tourist place found in every hillstation). The Mall must be having atleast 10 restaurants on it, but the coincidence and the fact is that 9 out of 10 share a common name (Sher-e-Punjab). The 10th one did some smart work while naming, it goes by the name ‘Shan-e-Punjab’. Just wonder the mentality of people !

DAY TWO

Saturday was the day. It was reserved for Rohtang Pass (15000ft, 51 km from Manali). For Rohtang pass, try to leave from Manali as early as possible. Two reasons for the early start; firstly, you will witness awesome picturesque snapshots of nature (silver horizon b/t thick clouds and dim rays of crepuscular). And more importantly the second reason, reduced traffic. Road to Rohtang is bearable except at some curves where jams are inevitable. Ideally, the 51 km journey from Manali to Rohtang Pass shouldn’t take more than 3 hours. Fair for Alto/Indica - Rs1000, for Qualis/Travera/Enova - Rs 1200. Also, you can hire snow suits from shops en route (Fair – Rs 250 per suit, negotiable).

Once you reach there, prepare yourself and your legs. Snow near parking is available, but that’s all ‘about-to-be-melt’ dust covered types, non-uniform and patchy (yet you will find majority of domestic tourists enjoying here). Best way to enjoy snow is to go up and up and up and UP. Walk 2-3 km and the world there changes. Purity in air and in thoughts come at ease. Not many people can be seen from there. Not many trees can be seen from there. Not many ‘man-made’ things can be seen from there. In situations like these, ‘you’ and ‘your shadows’ are more private and close. As you ascend, number of maniacs (trekkers) decrease exponentially.
Few points to remember (assuming you have no protective equipment with you):
1) TAP hard on ice to test whether the snow base is hard or soft. Incase it is soft; you may find half of you inside snow. And just incase it’s a ditch,….hee hee…Devil’s den is there.
2) Nature has created some damn patches every 100m. Take stall and make your gum-boots snow-free. Else, your feet will freeze.
3) While descending, sliding is the best option…enjoyable and fast.
4) DO NOT THROW PLASTIC THERE


At the highest point of my ascend, there were some camps belonging to BRO (Border Roads Organization, India). They were stationed temporarily there. As it was the last point of my ‘UP’ journey, a nearby jawan came to me asking me to wipe my sweat. Reasons? Sweat is absorbed by the clothes and turns solid due to conversion to ice. Now, because skin at higher altitudes becomes dry, this ‘sweat-turned-ice’ tend to cause rashes and even cuts, which may hurt at some areas of the body. Boye! Information first hand is so0O intriguing and fascinating. Salute to the guys who clear roads at that altitude so that tourists like we can have a visit.
“Aap log to yahan ghoomne aate ho, kabhi yahan ek-do din rehke dekho….mauj aa jayegi”
(You come here to have a visit, try living one-two days…enthusiasm/excitement/etc will come automatically)

Descend by sliding only. Don’t take sledges or tubes for sliding; try sliding without any apparatus for attaining maximum fun and speed. On way back one can do Paragliding (recommendable). Points are there on way from Rohtang Pass to Manali. There are three variants – short (3-4 min, Rs 700), medium (8-10 min, Rs 2000), long (25-30 min, Rs 3500).

DAY THREE








Early morning you can visit a wasteland ‘Nature’s Park’ situated in the heart of Manali. Nobody goes there and that’s the advantage. Try your morning walk here…you won’t regret.

One can utilize the third day for Manikaran. Manikaran is 85 km from Manali and is famous for hot natural geysers. The water is so hot that rice and pulses can be cooked in it. Leave Manali around 7 am and be back till 3 pm incase you have to catch the evening Volvo (departure – 6 pm). Fare of taxi to Manikaran – Rs. 1500 (negotiable)

Return trip was the best and the worst part. While on our way back to Delhi on Volvo we were 36 people including a group of Chinese girls (5 in number), 2 Germans and 2 Italians. Our journey started at 7 pm from Manali and was again suppose to end after 14 hours. The bus started with 10 litres of diesel in it and after visiting 3 gas stations and spending over Rs 50000, it was finally full. This ‘hi-tech’ bus was not having enough tubelights; forget TV/ Radio; and the best part AC wasn’t working (though some of the passengers who were I guess mechanical engineers repaired it somehow…GOD bless them). One more interesting thing, bus was having just one driver (though it is mandatory to carry two). And that one driver decided to sleep when the clock touched 12 am. He went to the boot and made himself comfortable and slept for a good two hours (yaaaaaawn), while many passengers were busy dialing numbers (or may be they were playing ‘snake’ on their mobiles??). After many stops, intended mischief by the driver and numerous other hassles, we finally ended our journey on Sunday around 1:30 pm at CP (New Delhi).

ps: Manali is colloquially called ‘Switzerland of middle class’ as it's a hot destination for young couples. Incase you don’t fit in here, try to go with friends as adventure activities like trekking, rock climbing, rafting ,etc are in abundance here.